YooYee

Address: 4925 N Broadway

Neighborhood: Uptown

Cuisine: Chinese

Website: https://yooyeechicago.com/

Our take: Uptown’s quiet provocateur: chili, green peppercorn and a brisket noodle soup that could talk you out of a bad day. The room is calm, the plates are not. Bring a bottle with some sugar in it.

Wine Pairing: Sichuan heat and numbing peppercorn want sweetness and chill: an off-dry Riesling (Kabinett or Spätlese) is the classic play. A Gewürztraminer or a sparkling rosé also stands up to chili oil without flinching.

Beer Pairing: A crisp Pilsner or a Mexican-style lager puts out the fire; a Helles is the gentler route. For the numb-and-tingle crowd, a light wheat beer is an easy friend.

Spirits Pairing: A gin and tonic, heavy on the ice, handles the heat. For the lamb and the brisket noodle soup, a rye Old Fashioned makes a dark, warming counterpoint.