Address: 3922 N Elston
Neighborhood: Irving Park
Cuisine: Thai
Website: https://www.laoderchicago.com/
Our take: A small wood-paneled room in Irving Park where Lao cooking finally gets its due: fermented pork salad, sausages perfumed with lemongrass and galangal, and a chicken noodle soup worth a detour. Show up with a six-pack and a sense of curiosity.
Wine Pairing: Lao food runs on herbs, lime, fermented funk and chili, so choose something with acid and a whisper of sweetness: Riesling, Grüner Veltliner or a dry rosé. A Chenin Blanc from the Loire is the sleeper pick for the grilled chicken.
Beer Pairing: A Pilsner or a Saison is the natural choice, with enough carbonation to scrub the palate between bites of sausage and sticky rice. A light lager works if you're sharing a six-pack.
Spirits Pairing: Gin and soda with a big squeeze of lime echoes the herbs. Or go with a rum highball, which loves the grilled, garlicky flavors.